Wanganui to Feilding

Day 16 - Saturday 13 March 2010

Dist: 78 km. Av. Speed: 24.2 km/hr. Cal: 1576. Ride Time: 3 hrs 12 min

We had to do a major sort-out of all our river camping gear and my riding gear this morning to make sure I didn’t leave anything behind or take along anything extra.

After getting it all organised we went and picked up my bike from the Avanti Plus store where they’d replaced the broken spoke, tuned the front derailleur and checked the headset. Nothing dramatic was wrong and it’s all going great now.

We cruised the main street looking for brunch and I picked up some good maps. The directions I’ve downloaded from AA Maps are pretty hard to follow in isolation but make good sense once you’re looking at them in conjunction with a decent scale map.

After a snack Shari and the boys drove off north back through Raetihi and eventually on to Waihi - while I pointed the bike east toward the flat country and with the following wind. My destination was Feilding via Marton. There was nothing special or spectacular about the day’s riding except that the tail wind made it easy to keep a good average speed with minimal effort and I made great time to Feilding despite a couple of surprisingly long and steepish inclines.

Feilding looks like a very nice wee rural New Zealand town. It looks a proud town and seems very well looked after.

It was good to get on the bike again and I’m looking forward to the next few days which are generally short and relatively flat - I’ll be keeping fingers crossed that the tail wind continues.

Pipiriki to Wanganui (from Raetihi)

Day 15 - Friday 12 March 2010

Dist: 79 km. Av. Speed: 22.4 km/hr. Cal: 1498. Ride Time: 3 hrs 32 min

It was cold and drizzly as we made our way to Angel Louise Café in Raetihi for breakfast about 8am. Score 7.5. Very nice setting and great service. A perfect place to stop if you’re looking to take a break in Raetihi while travelling SH 4.

The cloud lifted as we drove back down to Pipiriki to re-join my route and resume pedalling south to Wanganui. It was a relatively short and easy day following the river as it wanders through farmland to the coast. The first 15km were gravel, followed by a section of brand new seal then regular sealed country road after that. It was quite windy and narrow with a few good climbs, especially the last one with the lookout just before the intersection with SH 4.

Out on the road I caught up to a lady who must have been into her sixties pedalling quietly along on her way to Wanganui too. She’d started the day at Jerusalem, but home was Whakatane and she was heading back there via Taihape and Napier. Her old mountain bike with its off-road tyres was loaded with far more gear than mine and she was wearing sandals and socks without cleats. She must have amazing patience.

We broke the day in to three 25km legs and cruised into Wanganui about three o’clock for tea and hot cross buns at Donna’s. Thanks Donna, it was great to catch up.

After dropping my bike off at the Avanti Plus store for a check-up we moved in to our motel and made directly for the spa to sooth the legs.

We had a great dinner at Stellar in downtown Wanganui.

Tomorrow the family will head back to Waihi after I get my bike back, and I’ll make my way solo to Fielding for the night. The legs feel a bit jaded at the moment so I think it’ll be a pretty sedate stage.

Tieke Kainga Camp to Pipiriki (then Raetihi)

Day 14 - Thursday 11 March 2010

Canoe Dist: 20 km? Canoe Time: 3 hrs 30 min.

We were up and away early this morning, yep, we even beat the Dutch crews off the beach. The Germans cheated by sleeping in the hut so they didn’t have to pack up their tents and mats - so they were disqualified in my book even if they did get away first.

Day three has two good rapids that actually have names! The Dutch were quite concerned about them asking lots of questions of anybody and everybody. Maybe that’s why they were last to get into their canoes today?

It’s probably the most interesting day in that there’s a lot going on in quite a short distance. There were jet boats delivering people up river, caves to explore and the two exciting rapids. Shari showed her steering prowess on both rapids, showing off by positioning her boat perfectly for the smoothest (driest) ride. Reid and I on the other hand went for the more “Lethal Weapon” rollercoaster experience - straight down the guts! We got soaked and took on quite a bit of water but had a good laugh.

After a couple of stops for gummy bears and jet planes we arrived at Pipiriki about an hour ahead of schedule at 1.30 ready for our pick-up. All three other kiwi boats were well gone, the Germans put on a turn of speed, fleeing for the boat ramp as if they were being chased by something (did they hear banjos?) and the English snuck in quietly ahead of us all ‘stiff upper lip‘. We never saw the Dutch crews again, they were very late… maybe still pondering whether to portage the rapids or actually paddle over them? I hope they’re OK.

It was a happy/sad moment to arrive at Pipiriki. Happy that we’d completed our journey (and could have a hot shower) but sad to be leaving such a beautiful environment and ending such a wonderful experience.

If you’ve been thinking about doing this trip but putting it off… book it NOW. It’s a ‘must do’ for Kiwis and right up there with the Milford Track in my book.

We met a local Maori boy called John at the ramp and he gave me a bottle of Tutu oil that is supposed to be a magic remedy for most aches and pains. He reckoned it would be just the ticket for the rest of my biking trip. It also keeps the sandflies away.

Our vehicle was delivered as planned and after loading up we drove back to Raetihi to check into the camp ground and take that hot shower. We drove over to Ohakune for dinner because we were told there are several restaurants to choose from. We selected “The Bearing Point” and had a wonderful meal, the highlight being Adam devouring pork ribs with his bare hands. Like any good father I showed him how to make cave man-like grunting noises while he chomped and how to guard his chips from a marauding little brother.

I haven’t scored this restaurant because it was experienced under different conditions to the others so far and so it wouldn’t be fair, but it’s very nice.

From the “It could only happen in NZ” file, we were sitting in the restaurant when two Boart Longyear utes drove past and parked. I was curious to see if I knew any of the boys, and of course I did… but that’s not all, a few minutes later in walked the English crew - ha, we beat them to the food anyway!

Whanganui River: John Coull Camp to Tieke Kainga Camp

Day 13 - Wednesday 10 March 2010

Canoe Dist: 35km? Canoe Time: 7 hrs 15 min.

Day two is the biggest day but we didn’t wake up until late and by the time we’d had breakfast we were second to last to leave the camp, just ahead of the Germans. The Dutch were away first of course, the kiwis didn’t care and English couple were happy just to beat the Germans.

The fog was only just lifting as we hit the water and the sun struggled over the high, bush clad riverbanks. We slipped away down river barely making a sound, sliding past the ducks sitting like sentries on the dark grey rounded boulders. It was like a scene from “The Deer Hunter” and we half expected to be ambushed by Viet Kong. I think this part of the world is even too remote for banjos, and we certainly didn’t hear any squealing pigs!

More amazing rock formations today and lots of flat water paddling in between the all to brief rapids today. The river was about 400mm below normal flow which makes for extra paddling but better rapids. The weather was perfect again with clear blue skies and a very slight tail wind in some sections.

We braved the chilly water for a swim today. Well, at least I did. The others spent so long procrastinating on the muddy bank that they must have disturbed an eel who thought it would be fun to first nip Shari on the leg, then pierce its teeth into Adam’s foot, drawing blood and sending a screech echoing up the canyon. That got Reid heading for high ground too and so was the end of our Whanganui River swimming experience.

The “Bridge to Nowhere” walk is on this section of river so we pulled over to the bank and tried walking instead of paddling for a change. Reid and I decided to run up the trail to the bridge which only took 15 minutes or so. At the bridge we met a bloke on a mountain bike who’d ridden 33km from Ruatiti and gave me all the scoops on the best way to mountain bike the Ruapehu region. We’ll be back.

Seven hours is a long time sitting in a canoe and we were sure glad to see Tieke Kainga Camp at about six o’clock. We ended up overtaking the Dutch as they stopped to fix a stopbank or something? We paddled past the English sunning themselves on deck chairs and the Germans must have got side-tracked invading Australia (or maybe the Frenchman surrendered?) but we didn’t see them until very late that evening. By then the other Kiwis had drunk most of their beer and were ready for bed.

About 3am I crept out of our tent to check the stars and it was just incredible. With no light pollution and very little moon, the milky way was a glowing white streak across the sky and Crux and Orion’s Belt shone brightly on opposite horizons of the river valley.

Owhango to Whakahoro - then John Coull Camp

Day 12 - Tuesday 09 March 2010

Ride Dist: 47 km. Av. Speed: 23.7 km/hr. Cal: 1000. Ride Time: 1 hrs 59 min.

Canoe Dist: 27km? Canoe Time: 5 hrs 30 min.

With the North Island Main Trunk Line just across the road from the hotel we were awake with the first train about 5.30am. From then on there seemed to be a constant procession of trains and trucks until we got up at seven. Our hosts made us a hearty country breakfast (which I won’t score because it wouldn’t be fair - long story) that hit the spot and set us up for the day.

I headed off down Oio Road in the chilly early morning air as the sun was just clearing the mountain tops. The near-frost conditions confirmed that Owhango is the highest altitude I’ll reach on my North Island route. Oio Road was a wonderful picture of New Zealand high country farmland as I rode west with the sun on my back, fog rising from the valleys and cattle quietly grazing beside the road.

I learned another lesson today - never let a car driver tell you what the road conditions are like for cycling! There were plenty of ups on this road although it generally drops from Owhango to the Whanganui River at Whakahoro. Some of the road is incised into the steep, grey papa cliffs with vertical drops to small creeks below and then it pops out on to grassy plains, lined with poplar trees. It’s a very scenic route.

Mum and Dad and Shari and the boys (and our canoes) all overtook me somewhere on the road and I arrived at Whakahoro just as the canoe company were disappearing with our vehicle, which I hurriedly threw my bike and sweaty riding gear into before scoffing some more of Mum’s picnic, changing clothes and jumping in the canoe like some sort of really bad multisport race transition.

We had a quick and comical briefing by Dave from Wade‘s Landing Outdoors, who was a classic kiwi country boy and did a great job of building our confidence and getting us on the water.

Mum and Dad headed back to Waihi after seeing us off.

The drill at Whakahoro is that you get your canoe, map, instructions on what to do if you fall out, tie on your gear and then paddle about 400m down a tributary and then you hit the Whanganui River.

Gob-smacked would be the only way I could describe my first impression of the Whanganui! As we approached the main river we looked right (upstream) and then left to where we were going and I was just blown away by what I saw. We were into a rapid within the first few hundred metres and the high river banks seemed to swallow us and sweep us down toward our first camp. Just stunning!

There were seven other canoes on the river with us and four of those were carrying kiwis. The others were German (with a Frenchman on board), two Dutch boats and an English couple. We slowly got to know the others as we criss-crossed paths over the three days on the river.

The scenery just kept getting better and after a mere five and a half hours paddling we reached the John Coull camp site, our destination for day one.

After slogging our gear up the hill to the camping terraces, we pitched the tents, ate and crashed! Everybody was fast asleep by nine o’clock.

Te Kuiti to Owhango

Day 11 - Monday 08 March 2010

Dist: 112 km. Av. Speed: 22.5 km/hr. Cal: 2156. Ride Time: 5 hrs 02 min

I was a bit slow getting away this morning after chatting to my American neighbours at the camp ground. They were from Southern California between San Diego and Los Angeles and had spent the last five weeks travelling around New Zealand (for the second time). I mentioned that once they got north of Hamilton things got a bit dry and north of Auckland they were talking drought. He chuckled and asked “what constitutes a drought here”, I said “oh, about three weeks without rain” at which point he laughed out loud and said “we hadn’t had rain for six years - until last week when we had floods and 52 houses were washed away in mud slides”.

So, anyway… breakfast at Tiffany’s - who’d of thought - in Te Kuiti. I scanned the main street for an eatery and Tiffany’s looked like it would fit the bill. And it did, serving up a wonderful muesli with fresh fruit followed by poached eggs just like I’d cook them at home. Bang-on, the only problem was that they served both at the same time… so I’m stuck with the dilemma between soggy muesli or cold eggs - doh! I’d still give them an 8.5 though.

I was putting off leaving Te Kuiti, not because I’m attached to the place or anything, but the thought of the monster climb out of town as you head south. There’s no warm up, just straight into it, and 20 minutes later you’re at the top! Tough start to the day.

There were a few ups and downs for the first 10km or so out of town and then it settled in to some good cycling although the shoulder through here is either about 200mm wide or non-existent so it could be a bit hairy at times as the trucks rumbled past.

Mum and Dad caught up with me about 15km out of Te Kuiti and we stopped for morning tea about 10km after that. Mum had made up a huge picnic basket with all the trimmings. Dad asked if I wanted them to carry my panniers and handle-bar bag… I was caught with a moral dilemma, wondering if it was within the rules to accept outside assistance, so I had to think about it for oh, about three seconds. They carried my stuff all the way to Owhango and it was wonderful. It felt weird at first but I soon got used to it and was happy to be able to crank along at 30km/hr with ease knowing that it was a 110km plus day ahead.

The traffic volume reduced by probably 75% after Eight Mile Junction and the road improved so it was really quite enjoyable. And the landscape is certainly greening up as I head further south. We had lunch right on 50km from Te Kuiti - another roadside banquet (thanks Mum) and then pushed on to Tauramanui for afternoon tea at the Copper Kettle.

Shari and the boys caught us up about 10km short of Owhango after they’d spent the day at Waitomo Caves.

I have to admit that without the panniers and front bag my mind switched back to race mode again and I tended to treat every 25km stretch as an individual challenge to keep the average speed up. It worked out OK and I got to Owhango still feeling alright but glad that there won’t be any pedalling for the next three days which will give the legs a chance to recuperate.

After a wonderful ‘country pub’ meal complete with friendly country style service at the Owhango Hotel we packed up all our waterproof barrels ready for the big kayak adventure on the Whanganui River tomorrow. The weather looks fantastic!

I won’t be able to blog until Friday now sorry - that’s assuming (and I think it’s a fair assumption) that there’s no phone coverage on the Whanganui River! So the next ripping yarn will probably come from Wanganui City on Friday or Saturday morning.

Hamilton to Te Kuiti

Day 10 - Sunday 07 March 2010

Dist: 94 km. Av. Speed: 22 km/hr. Cal: 1584. Ride Time: 4 hrs 15 min

Another great day on the road. We left our accommodation about 8.30 and rode toward the city in search of a breakfast place to critique, but didn’t find anything open until we got all the way to Metropolis in Victoria Street. There was a bit of a stiff southerly blowing down Te Rapa straight which made us wonder if we were going to have to do battle with it all day.

Metropolis was always going to be a good choice and didn’t disappoint - they delivered the best Muesli yet (with rhubarb!!) and really good scrambled eggs with salmon. It would have to score a 9 for sure.

Heading out of Hamilton down Cobham Drive we stumbled across ex Waihi girl Jenny Riley out mountain bike training so she rode along with us for a while and we had a good old chat. Look for her name in the results of the Colville Connection next weekend; she goes well on a MTB.

The ‘inland’ route under the shadow of Mt Pirongia was another good choice today, with little traffic and good roads for cycling. We made great time to Pirongia village for smoko (yes, nice café there too) before pushing on to Otorohanga for a late lunch at the ‘Thirsty Weta’. Nice food but let down by distracted staff so I’d only give it a 7.

There were three good ups in the last 10k before Otorohanga which got the quads burning a bit but the after-lunch 18k blast into New Zealand’s shearing capital, Te Kuiti was fast and easy and a nice finish to the day and Butsy’s ‘holiday’.

Butsy departed le tour at Te Kuiti and headed back to Waihi. Thanks mate, it was great having you along, setting the pace and we sure cranked out some good distances at good speeds while still managing to take in the sites and enjoy the ride.

The back roads through the Waikato really do make a good touring destination whether you’re in a car or motorbike or whatever you like to tour on.

The repairs I did on my bike yesterday, the new pedals and the taped up and reinforced carrier all held together well, And I also made some adjustments to my riding position and lightened the load in my backpack, both of which have helped relieve the pressure on the major bike-to-body contact point; yes, my butt.